Once upon a time, when everybody cooked at home almost every night, a well-stocked pantry was something you could take for granted. Today, with family members running in different directions on any given night, everyone's plans are subject to change at a moment's notice; with effortless but calorie-laden takeout foods beckoning from every storefront, a well-stocked pantry is our first line of defense for healthful eating. VINE-RIPENED TOMATO COULIS MAKES 11/2 CUPS This quick-cooking tomato sauce has a fresh-from-the-garden flavor. It's delightful on pasta, grilled vegetables or Turkey Rice Meatballs. Summertime, when tomatoes are at their peak, is the best time to make tomato coulis. In the winter, I use half fresh tomatoes and half canned plum tomatoes to achieve a summertime flavor. Be sure to use a good-quality non-aluminum pot with a heavy bottom to prevent the sauce from sticking and burning. And keep stirring as the sauce cooks. 1 teaspoon vegetable oil 8 vine-ripened tomatoes, quartered 1 celery rib, coarsely chopped 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 bay leaf 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon olive oil Heat the oil in a small pot set over medium heat. Add the tomatoes, celery, garlic and bay leaf; bring to a simmer. Simmer - stirring occasionally, for 25 to 30 minutes or until the tomatoes soften and have released their juices and the mixture reduces in volume by a third. Remove the bay leaf and transfer to a blender or food processor fitted with a metal blade; pulse to incorporate. Do not over blend or the mixture will lose its vibrant red color. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve; stir in the basil, salt, black pepper and olive oil. Vine-Ripened Tomato Coulis can be kept in the refrigerator, covered, for 5 days or in the freezer for 1 month. HOT SOBA NOODLES WITH SHRIMP AND SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS MAKES 4 SERVINGS What could be more soothing than a bowl of noodles and broth, piping hot? Add succulent shrimp and aromatic ginger, and you have a meal that nourishes both body and soul. To make fast work of this soup, buy shrimp that are already shelled and deveined or ask your fishmonger to do it for you. 16 large shrimp, shelled and deveined 1 tablespoon minced garlic 2 teaspoons dark sesame oil 3 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce 1 (3/4-inch) piece gingerroot 4 ounces soba noodles 1 cup Chicken Stock (page 200) Vegetable oil in a spray bottle or 1 teaspoon vegetable oil 4 cups spinach, trimmed, washed and patted dry but slightly damp 8 shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and quartered 4 teaspoons fresh lime juice 1/4 cup diagonally sliced scallions Place the shrimp and garlic into a glass or ceramic dish, and pour in the sesame oil and soy sauce; toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Using a cheese grater, coarsely grate the gingerroot. Then, working over a small bowl, squeeze the grated gingerroot with your hands to extract the juice until you have 1 teaspoon. Reserve the juice and discard the ginger pulp. Bring a medium-size pot of lightly salted water to a boil and add the soba noodles; simmer for 5 minutes, or until soft. Drain and return to the pot; pour in 1/2 cup stock and keep warm. Spray or grease another nonstick pan with vegetable oil, set it over medium heat and add the spinach; cook, stirring often, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until it just begins to wilt but is still a vivid green. Remove from the heat and keep warm. Spray or grease a nonstick pan with vegetable oil and set over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp, shiitake mushrooms and any remaining marinade; sauté, stirring, for 3 to 5 minutes. Pour in the remaining 1/2 cup stock and ginger juice; bring to a simmer. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the shrimp are pink and firm to the touch. Place equal portions of the spinach into warm soup bowls. Spoon the hot soba noodles and stock over the spinach and top with the shrimp and shiitake mushrooms. Drizzle 1 teaspoon lime juice into each bowl, garnish with scallions and serve.